Experiential Learning and the Art of Khayamiya

This article is about the hands-on Khayamiya workshop that I host with a master craftsman in Fatimid Cairo, near Bab Zeweila

    When I first moved back to Egypt I got to know some people in the bazaars, just by being friendly. I quickly learned that Egyptians were still focused on the old tourism model. Bring tourists, have them buy things, get rich. That model no longer works anywhere in the world. Tourists pack light nowadays. They're younger and they rent. The are minimalist and they don't want to fill their small apartments with trinkets and souvenirs that will break next time they move. Instead they want to take pictures, have experiences and learn things, and fill their cloud with images that document their adventures. 

    It's with this in mind that I started proposing the idea of educational workshops to artisans and shop keepers at bazaars. People listened, but it wasn't easy to get people to buy in. People here think in terms of selling objects of value, they can't believe that they could charge for a demonstration, and their guests would happily leave with nothing but pictures and memories. It was tough for people to imagine.  

    The Khayamia seemed like the perfect place to try this out, and Mr. Hossam Al Farouk took me seriously. When tourists book the tour, we do it in the morning. The market is less crowded at 10am, and it's a good time to sit down and give a small group your personal attention. But what is the Khayamia?

Man walks through Cairo's oldest market, called Souq Al Khayamia

    Tucked away deep down the central corridor of Islamic Cairo, past Khan Al Khalili and Al Azhar University, lies an ancient market known as Al Khayameya. The spelling may vary from place to place, as the English alphabet lacks parallels with Arabic. As long as you pronounce it clearly, people in the neighborhood will know what you are looking for. It's on the same road as El Mu'izz Street, walking south with Khan el Khalili behind you. 

    The Khayamia is the market of the Tentmakers. I'll explore the history in another post, but to keep it simple, hundreds of years ago it was a horse stable, then a silk market, and eventually the stable stalls became little shops for Cairo's generations of tent-maker families. Seif Al Rashidi encapsulates the history in his wonderful book called The Tentmaker's Alley

I have been visiting the Khayamia since I was young, and have developed an appreciation for this art form. Khayameya is about spellbinding geometry and hypnotic colors, working together to stun the viewer. Last year I met a particular magician of the quilted arts whose name is Hossam. 

Mr Hossam Al Farouk at his shop in the tent maker's Alley

    Hossam Al Farouk has exhibited internationally and his family has created Khayamia for generations. He's honest, humble and unassuming. Some shop keepers at the market become dealers when you enter their store, especially as a foreigner. I've sat and talked with him a number of times and it's clear that Hossam is a master craftsman, one who cares more about stitching than he does dealing. And his authenticity comes through very quickly.

    I proposed the idea of doing experiences tours with Mr Hossam, and he liked it. I came to believe that a lot of tourists would come not to buy but to learn something new. Travelers love to see how artisans create Khayamia and other fine craft, and I believe that that experience is worth something. 

 Mr Hossam is a natural teacher. He's warm and welcoming, and immediately orders us tea. After greetings he begins to take out materials and show us his process.

 

Folded paper is how reflecting patterns are created in Khayamia. Mr. Hossam folds a sheet of newsprint 3 times, creating 8 folds. 

  

Mr Hossam traces over the pattern with a regular pencil

Design transferred to canvas using zahraa blue chalk. See the dots that mark the transfer.

The pattern is drawn on one side, and holes are used to transfer the pattern through to the remaining 7 sides.

A plastic brush resembling like the tail of a pony, used to dust away the Zahraa powder.

    Then comes the sewing. A small piece of fabric is cut, close to the size of the shape that will be covered. The down stitch and up stitch are covered in one motion, starting from the outside of the shape to the inside, and repeating.

     

A visitor named Liz learns to stitch Khayamia with Hossam

 

An Academic from South Korea learning about Khayamia from Hossam

    This simple process of drawing shapes and covering them with colored cloth is the essence of the art of Khayamia. In this small workshop in Mr. Hossam's shop, we showed visitors how the Khayamia is made and then gave them a chance to try out the artform and technique. This is a hands on demonstration where visitors got to stitch a small sample piece in the traditional design. Mr. Hossam was generous enough to actually give away the sample and the necessary materials so that people could practice at home. 

    I should mention that visitors did want to purchase Mr. Hossam's works, after the experience. But they didn't have to. I made it very clear that they are free to patronize shop they like and I'm not involved in that side of things. I just provide the educational experience. But because Mr. Hossam is a genuine, warm soul, and a master of his craft with extensive knowledge, people value the experience and want to take something of equal value with them, on top of having the experience itself. I'm enthralled by Mr. Hossams work as well and I would gladly purchase an elaborate work of his as soon as I get the chance.